1.
Petal boots
A type of over-reach boot that has replaceable pets in case of damage.
4 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
2.
Competition boots
Must give good protection and have secure fastenings. A non-absorbent boot is most suitable if water has to be negotiated.
2 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
3.
Yorkshire boot
Is made from woolen material and fastened with a wide tape. Can solve brusing problems.
2 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
4.
Polo wraps
Polo wraps can be used instead of boots for protection, but must be carefully wrapped to avoid cutting off the circulation in a horse's leg.
2 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
5.
Fetlock/ankle protection
A smaller version of the fetlock boot which protects the front part of the fetlock only. Used for horses that may fall forward when getting up or down or stumble when getting up.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
6.
Rubber boots
A type of bell boot that can be softened in hot water to pull on. Some bell boots have buckles that cause a horse to stumble if he treads on them.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
7.
Boots for injuries
Hoof boots are made to hold poultices or drawing agents for hooves that are abcessed or otherwise injured.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
8.
Hock boots
The hock is prone to injury on journeys or in the stable if there is insufficient bedding. Hock boots should be kept soft and well oiled and must be well padded inside. They should not be left on for long periods.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
9.
Knee caps
The knee joint is vulnerable to knocks and bruising. Travelling knee caps are a sensible investment and the skeleton pattern a useful precaution for road work. Can also be used for horses with chronic big knees who tend to knock themselves when jumping.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
10.
Travelling boots
Short and long travelling boots are made to protect the horse while trailering to different locations. Some horses need to be trained to wear them.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
11.
Speedicut boots
These boots are cut high on the inside and protect the high stepping horse or jumper who tends to strike himself.
1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
12.
Sausage boot
Is made of thick rubber tubing threaded on a strap and fitted to the pastern of each hind leg. Protects the pastern or coronet.
0 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
13.
Tendon boots
Are designed to winthstand a strike into the front tendon, and have extra padding down the back.
0 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
14.
Brushing boots
There are many boots made to protect the cannon bone. A full-length brushing boot will protect the leg from the knee to the fetlock.
0 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
15.
Fetlock boots
The fetlock joints are very vulnerable to knocks, especially on the hind legs, as many horses move extremely close behind. Once bruised, the joint can become chronically enlraged from continuous friction unless it is protected. Several models of fetlock boots are available.
0 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
16.
Over-reach or bell boots
Are designed to protect the heels of the front legs from being trodden on. They should be used for all jumping or fast work.
0 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
17.
Medical boots
There are boots made with magnets attached for magnet therapy.
-1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
18.
Polo boots
Are very well padded to absorb accidental blows in the course of a game, and are designed to come well down over the fetlock joing. They become heavy when wet, however, and are not suitable for eventing or long-distance riding.
-1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
19.
Open fronted boots
Are popular with show jumpers. They protect the tendons but leave the front of the leg clear.
-1 point - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
20.
Tendon moulds
Can be put inside brushing boot, or banaged into place, for extra protection.
-2 points - added 14 years ago by dspsfarm -
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